We absolutely love Barolo and Barbaresco, the king and queen of Nebbiolo, but finding a worthy one that is on budget is rare, so we are delighted to present this season’s baller wine. The Barolo War ended long ago with both sides meeting in the middle: the traditionalists learned how to better farm and vinify Nebbiolo for earlier drinking potential and the modernists picked earlier and pulled way back on the percentage of new French oak barriques. The result is that one usually does not need to wait 10+ years to open a Barolo, with many being ready to drink upon release after the mandated 38 months of aging. Indeed, Mauro Veglio’s nephew Allesandro, who took the reins in 2017, makes Barolo in traditional and modernist styles and everything in between, depending on the vineyard and the vintage. This blend of estate vineyards in the townships of La Morra and Monforte d’Alba is pressed off the skins prior to fermentation concluding to keep tannins at a reasonable level and is aged in French barriques but only 15-20% new, staying in barrel six months beyond the prescribed eighteen to concentrate and further soften the wine. The many layers of aromas of cherry, blueberry, woody mint, nutmeg, tar and earth, with flavors of pomegranate, rose hips, cherry, tarragon and barky spice, with robust but not overbearing tannins, are lovely a capella, but would absolutely sing with beef bourguignon, braised game meats, Agnoloti stuffed with meat or Brasato al Barolo–just don’t use a Barolo for the braising liquid! This wine, then, is ready to be enjoyed, but true to its Barolo name, it will keep and improve for many years if you wish. How far along in the development curve, where fruit recedes and savory herbs and spices surge, is the perfect time to open a Barolo? Even if one could know for certain how that particular bottle was developing in its specific cellaring conditions, it would be a matter of personal preference. To find out, we advise you to find an ageable wine that you particularly like and then to buy a fairly large quantity (retailers will happily add your requested case to their next order with their vendor) with which to check in over the years.