The 9 most common grapes in California winemaking comprise 93% of the plantings in the state. Chenin Blanc is a classic white grape of the Loire Valley in France, as well as many other regions in the new world, that is a very small but promising part of the “7% solution”. If California, which is about the same size as and mountainous like Italy, and which grows hundreds of grapes everywhere in the country, is to realize its full potential, it will have to break out of its “only the most popular grapes” straightjacket. Those willing to break out of their comfort zones can enjoy high-quality wines at more reasonable prices while knowing they are helping California to develop its wine culture. Jason Lee is a young winemaker presenting his first vintage of wine under his own label. Zah is Chinese for “to burst” or “to explode” and his goal is to make wines that burst with flavor from the first sip. Chenin Blanc is an acidic grape, yet Lee chose to pick the organically-grown grapes early and limit the mellowing phenomenon of malolactic fermentation. A little richness from the regular stirring of the lees counterbalances the acidity. This fresh, honeyed-apple Chenin Blanc is approved for fried chicken.