At roughly 50° north latitude, the Ahr is one of Germany’s northernmost and smallest wine regions, yet unlike neighboring Mosel and Mittelrhein, which are dominated by white grapes, nearly 85 percent of its production is red, with Spätburgunder (the German term for Pinot Noir) accounting for the overwhelming majority. Germany today is the world’s third-largest producer of Pinot Noir after France and the United States, but nowhere else in Germany is the grape more closely tied to the reputation of a region than along the steep slopes of the Ahr. Medieval Cistercian, Benedictine, and Carthusian monk, the same orders that developed Burgundy, recognized the advantages of these south-facing terraces early on, and the region’s modern reputation rests on the same fundamentals: a cool macroclimate that demands optimal sun exposure, Devonian slate and volcanic soils that absorb and radiate heat, forested ridges that buffer cold northern winds, and sharply inclined vineyards that maximize ripening in a marginal environment. Founded in 1953 and now in its third generation, Ludwig Kreuzberg sustainably farms 9.5 hectares, much of which are Grosses Gewächs (equivalent to the french Grand Cru). The 2020 Devonschiefer (which is German for Devonian slate) is a blend from their steep, slate-dominated Grosses Gewächs parcels (blends cannot be labeled Grosses Gewächs/GG) of 40–50-year-old vines at around 200 meters elevation, fermented and aged in largely neutral 300-liter oak and barrique. The wine shows black cherry, red apple and spice that reminds us of Russian River Pinot, but has a distinct mineral tone and firmer tannins that have smoothed nicely with 6 years of aging but will still benefit from decanting and would pair well with roast poultry, pork—or Schnitzel! One last note: the Ahr region was devastated by flooding in 2021, so this 2020 was rescued from a barrel in the flooded winery (wine barrels are water tight). They have since rebuilt their winery, but if you like this Pinot and can find other Ahr wines, the region’s producers could use a little extra consideration for years to come.