Xinomavro (ksee-NOH-maw-vroh) is the principal grape of Northern Greece (which is at the same latitude as far Northern California), and the mountainous Naoussa wine region is thought of as the Barolo of Greece. The high acidity (Xinomavro means “acid black”) and tannins of the grape usually make it a wine that benefits from patient cellaring, but this wine is made in an earlier drinking style. To continue the Barolo metaphor, this wine is much like the Langhe Nebbiolos we’ve enjoyed in the past. Apostolos Thymiopoulos comes from a grape-growing family, and after attaining a degree in oenology from the University of Athens he began making wine from his family’s certified organic and practicing biodynamic vineyards to immediate acclaim. This naturally fermented wine is aged in concrete in order to concentrate the flavors while imparting no oaky flavors. Now with fifteen vintages under his belt, Mr. Thymiopoulos has shown that his early success was no fluke. There are cherry and anis notes here, like Nebbiolo, but there is also a cherry tomato and black tea note that pairs well with lamb and beef. The wine is full-bodied and powerful but smooth.