Reduction ain’t just a New Year’s resolution, it’s also a complicated chemical interaction between certain varietals and sulfur compounds produced by fermentation in the absence of oxygen. Basically, reduction is the opposite of oxidation and all wines go through various stages of reduction and oxidation during their lifetimes. Sometimes referred to as “bottle stink”, reduction can manifest itself in aromas such as cooked or rotten eggs, onions or garlic, sweet corn, cabbage and/or burnt rubber. Some reductive aromas, however, are desirable, such as the flint or matchstick aromas that are common in white Burgundy, and what is referred to as minerality (which does also exist in wine outside of reduction) is often a touch of reduction. Winemakers must tread a fine line to preserve the fresh fruit and floral aromas by limiting exposure to oxygen, while not allowing it to go too far into the reductive zone. The line becomes even finer when making natural wine such as this wine and provides us an excellent opportunity to learn about the practical considerations of dealing with a reductive wine. Firstly, to diagnose if a wine is reduced, beyond perceiving one of the above-mentioned aromas, one must taste the wine, for no matter how intense the stink (and sensitivity to reduction is as variable in people as any other aroma), the reductive aromas will disappear once in the mouth. This confirms a case of reduction and the good news is that it is almost always curable. If the central cause of reduction is lack of oxygen, then, consequently, exposure to oxygen is the cure. A few minutes in the glass will solve many cases, but more stubborn cases or a desire to drink the wine quickly, can benefit from–no joke– shaking the bottle, or, if you have the time and more wine to drink in the meantime, cork the bottle, put it in the fridge and check on it the next day or the day after. In this case we would recommend opening and preferably decanting the bottle an hour or so before serving, but be assured that your patience will be rewarded as the wine is a great example of Austria’s most popular red grape, with elegant cherry, raspberry, spice and floral notes complemented by silky tannins. With the 17th generation of the Moser family in charge of the winery and the 18th learning the craft, the family’s dedication to biodynamic and regenerative farming points to a bright future for this estate. Certified biodynamic in 2009, after many years of practice, the vibrancy of the soil is translated into the wine and the elegant flavors previously mentioned are powerful enough to accompany lamb.