Now that Sancerre has become so expensive,one might be well served to adopt a somewhat Burgundian approach to sourcing bargains: buying a regional level Burgundy from a producer whose elevated Burgundies you appreciate. While Sancerre doesn’t have a system of legally delimited Villages and Crus, one can safely buy a Val de Loire IGP Sauvignon Blanc from a blue chip Sancerre producer, as famous wineries have little to gain and much to lose by putting their name on a poor wine, and Henri Bourgeois is as blue chip as they come. With 11 generations producing acclaimed wine in Sancerre, Pouilly Fume, Quincy and Menetou-Salon they have honed the skills to recognize an excellent vineyard that lies outside an appellation map. With certified organic farming, a slow, cool fermentation with native yeasts and aging in the traditional stainless steel, this “little” Bourgeois is not so little, and exhibits nearly all the characteristics of their Sancerre at a small fraction of the cost. The gorgeous nose shows pear, lychee, gooseberry and white blossoms with no hint of grassines. Just a touch more bitterness on the finish and a less prominent minerality distinguishes it from their Sancerre. This would accompany anything a Sancerre would, such as a goat cheese salad, grilled white fish or chicken.