Jean Foillard is one of the “Gang of Four” whose determination to return to traditional viticulture and vinification practices birthed the renaissance of “Cru” Beaujolais, and made it a sommelier’s darling. This isn’t bubble-gummy, adult juice-box Beaujolais. This has a silky texture and depth that, while having delicious fruit, delivers layers of minerality, spice and flowers. Certified organic agriculture and rigorous sorting ensures that only the healthiest grapes make it into the fermentation vat, where whole clusters and the resulting semi-carbonic fermentation give aromatic lift while not neglecting tannic structure. To be clear, this is not a “Cru” Beaujolais from one of the ten villages whose names are at the top of the Beaujolais pyramid, this is his “Beaujolais-Villages”, which falls in between “Beaujolais” and “Cru” in the quality hierarchy. This is a light red that can even take a chill and be served with fish.