Côtes du Rhône Blancs and Côtes du Rhône Villages Blancs (they are separate appellations) are rare, comprising 15% and 7% of total production, respectively, and good ones tend to be expensive, so this reasonably priced, organically grown wine from a ninth-generation winemaker is a remarkable find. (Shhh, don’t blow it up, it’ll be our little secret.) The flavors involve candied citrus as well a fresh green melon and green plum, acacia and honeysuckle. This blend of equal parts Roussanne, Marsanne and Grenache Blanc is grown in the rockiest vineyards you’ll ever see, so wet rocks also show in the wine. The grapes are hand-harvested before sunrise and fermented in a mixture of concrete and large neutral barrels.