From the farthest northern vineyards in Italy, Alto Adige/Sudtirol, a region that was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire until the end of World War I and where German is still the dominant language, we have a red grape thought to be indigenous to the region but which has at the very least been provably grown in the region since the 13th Century. As is the case with many Italian regions and grapes, the reputation of the naturally productive Schiava/Vernatsch/Trollinger grape began to suffer in the post war era when industrial farming and lax rules governing yields produced excessively light and characterless wines, but the grape’s reputation has been revived by the current generation’s focus on quality and pride in their indigenous grapes. The Alois Lageder Winery was founded in 1823 with each male heir (except one) named Alois, so that the fourth and fifth version of Alois Lageder, and fifth and sixth generation, are currently running the show. Alois IV transitioned the vineyards to fully biodynamic farming in 1990. (His daughter Helena, incidentally, produced a terrific film about her family’s farming practices that we recommend and you can watch here.) From old vines grown using the traditional pergola method and aged in concrete tanks, this is a classic representation of Schiava with roses, raspberries, exotic spice and a citrus-tinged acidity. The slight tannins suit this wine to lighter foods like appetizers, pizza, pasta and white meats. Enjoy this at cellar temperature or even well below.