2019 Köfererhof -- Sylvaner -- Alto Adige Valle Isarco

2019 Köfererhof -- Sylvaner -- Alto Adige Valle Isarco

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The Kerschbaumer family acquired the more than 1000-year-old Köfererhof estate in 1940 in what was then part of Austria. A few years later when the region became the Northernmost part of Italy, the family remained. The region is still German-speaking and culturally more Austrian than Italian but, interestingly, grows far more Sylvaner (also spelled Silvaner) than Austria, where the grape originated from. Indeed, overall acreage planted to Silvaner, an ancient grape, has plummeted since the 19th and early 20th centuries when substantial amounts were grown in Germany, Austria, France and the rest of Eastern Europe. Its ubiquity and overcropping ruined its reputation, however, and, indeed, where careful winemaking and management of yields are lacking the grape produces very neutral wines. The pendulum has been swinging back for some time now, with dedicated growers advocating for the grape and now every wine professional we know loves Sylvaner. The Isarco Valley is the Northernmost subregion of the Alto Adige, with vineyards growing right up to the vertical cliffs of the Dolomites. This is high latitude and elevation viticulture, with a latitude equivalent to that of Southern Washington state and elevation beyond 700 meters. The hillside vineyards give just enough exposure to the sun to ripen the grapes, while the altitude, with its high diurnal shift between day and night temperatures, retains the crisp acidity the region is known for.  Günther Kerschbaumer has become one of the most respected winemakers in the region in his time at the helm, and his most favored grape is the maligned Sylvaner. The grapes are farmed organically, harvested manually, fermented in stainless steel with native yeast and then 80% is aged in stainless steel on the lees for 6 months and 20% is aged in old acacia vats. Pear, green melon, subtle spice and touch of yogurt. Moderate acid.