Gallura, in Sardegna’s northeast, is the island’s only DOCG whose name means “stony area,” a reference to the decomposed granite soils and mistral-wind-shaped hillsides that give Vermentino di Gallura its intensity. Vermentino itself is a tangled subject, linked variously to Pigato in Liguria, Favorita in Piedmont, and Rolle in Provence; it is important to not overlook the clones’ nuances and call them all “Vermentino”, however. These vines, selectively bred over centuries, show enough differences to be called by their regional names. For instance, the Pigato grape is speckled, the Vermentino in Sardegna is not, and they make different wines. Whatever its terroir, wines made from these related varieties share a common profile—bright acidity, notes of peach, grapefruit and lemon peel, hints of dried herbs, and a gentle saline edge. We feel that Vermentino di Gallura, no offense to the Filomena Dry Creek Valley Vermentino we had in 2022, is the best expression of the grape. Vigne Surrau sits in the Surrau Valley only fifteen minutes from the Costa Smeralda, a setting that brings together rugged granite, persistent winds, and cooling maritime air. Founded in 2001 by Tino Demuro, whose family has cultivated vines in Sardegna for generations. “Limizzani,” named for a nearby Nuragic site that predates Rome by a millenia, is drawn from sustainably farmed Vermentino vines aged 7–12 years on sandy granite soils, fermented in stainless steel and aged briefly on lees. The result is a fresh, saline, Mediterranean-herb-tinged expression of Gallura—with notes of mixed citrus and stone with a bitter almond finish and a touch of oily texture. Delicious with creamy pasta and chicken or seafood.