The town of Eger in northeast Hungary has exported wine since the 13th century, most famously, Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood from Eger), a red blend where Kékfrankos is the primary contributor, that was first produced in the 19th century and which was still produced and exported under communist control and then became the first wine of controlled origin created in Hungary after the fall of communism. Since the fall, Hungary has made impressive strides and producers have pushed to create ever higher quality wines with Kékfrankos being the most favored and planted red grape in the country and the Nagy-Eged Vineyard in Eger has become one of the most valued in the country. Eger sits atop ancient dormant volcanoes layered with limestone, rhyolite and tufa, and the Stumpfs now farm organically and without irrigation, roughly 20 hectares. János Stumpf (pronounced Shtoompf), born in a Tokaj village, arrived in Eger as a young physician and ambulance driver, began renting vineyards as Hungary reopened, and soon graduated from selling fresh, jugged wine to collaborating with Hungarian-born Master Sommelier János Szabó on a pure Kékfrankos (kek-FRAHNK-ohsh) project, a venture now continued in full partnership with his son Péter. Kékfrankos/Blaufränkisch was long thought to be identical to either Pinot Noir or Gamay, resulting in its Croatian and Bulgarian nicknames of Borgogna and Gamé but modern DNA profiling has now shown that it is at least related to both of these varieties, as they are all descendants of Gouais Blanc. The 2019 Nagy-Eged Kékfrankos, unfined, unfiltered, given only a touch of SO₂ at bottling, and rested over 18 months in large format barrels before extended bottle aging, captures the tension the Stumpfs seek. Dense yet refreshing, red-fruited but mineral, and structured enough for richer dishes. Flavors of barky spice, brambly berries, black cherries and pepper with high acidity and medium low tannins. The wine has reached a lovely sweet spot where the primary flavors of the grape are balanced with the oak flavors (secondary) and the aged flavors (tertiary). Grilled meats and sausages, lentil and ham soup or roasted poultry would all suit.