This wine has a fun but mysterious label. #ONO La Collection d’Honorine Pain is a side project produced at Honorine Pain’s family’s winery, Domaine de la Commanderie, with the #ONO being a play on her first name. Her father Phillipe Pain started the winery in 1982 and now both his daughters not only help at the family winery but make their own wines there as well. While their winery is in Chinon and while Sauvignon Blanc is originally from the Loire Valley and is the principal grape just a few AOCs east of Chinon in Sancerre and Pouilly Fume, the grape is not allowed to be labeled as a Chinon; that honor is reserved only for Chenin Blanc. There are pockets of soil (gravelly limestone and clay) in this Chenin Blanc part of the world, however, that are better suited to Sauvignon Blanc, in which case the wine is often labeled as Touraine, the broader regional AOC. But as Touraine has limited export recognition and she wanted to make a natural wine, anyway, the fun-loving Honorine, thought it not worth the paperwork to register her wine as Touraine. Now that we have the label sorted we can move on to what’s behind it. The organically and sustainably grown grapes are hand harvested and pressed very slowly, fermented and aged in temperature controlled stainless steel with regular stirring of the lees. The result is a restrained cornucopia of asian pear, guava, tangerine and papaya framed in minerals and tarragon and topped with cream. A terrific aperitif wine.