Bele Casel Prosecco extra brut -- NV Prosecco -- Glera, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera

Bele Casel Prosecco extra brut -- NV Prosecco -- Glera, Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera

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As luck would have it, we have yet another example of an Italian denominazione that achieves international success and then gets expanded beyond all reason, although in this case the expansion happened in 2009 instead of the post-war years and the Prosecco expansion sprang from a protective motive instead of a commercial one. Until 2009 producers outside the original Prosecco zone, and even outside of Italy, could produce wines with Prosecco on the label as that was the name of the main grape used to make Prosecco. To protect (moderately) the Prosecco name the DOC was massively expanded (like 20x) to include virtually all of the Veneto and all of Venezia-Giulia and Friuli in order to appease the large producers there who were already well established in the market, and the name of the grape was changed to an ancient synonym, Glera. Simultaneously, however, the original, hilly, Prosecco zones of Conegliano-Valdobbiadene and Asolo (AH-zolo) were then transformed into DOCGs. It remains to be seen if quality-minded producers will benefit from this nuanced distinction within Prosecco (using the term Classico would seem to have been fitting), but it does make finding more elegant and complex, yet still very affordable Prosecco quite easy. Bele Casel was founded by Danilo Ferraro in 1976 using grapes farmed by his father-in-law and his children Luca and Paola have been fully devoted to the family winery since childhood. The certified organic grapes for the Extra Brut come from 80+ year old vines from the Dei Confinanti vineyard at 450 meters of elevation, including ancient local varietals Bianchetta Trevigiana, Perera, Rabbiosa, Marzemina Bianca that augment the 90-95% Glera. Along with a far below standard 4 grams of residual sugar (the average on the shelf is 16-22 grams) this is a more mineral and herbal, yet still generous sparkling wine. Pear, yellow apple, wax, gravel and yellow melon flavors with a touch of tarragon make this a suitable companion for main courses of as salty seafood such as Crab cakes.