For a country with an ancient winemaking tradition and which has the highest percentage of land under vine in Europe, it is somewhat surprising that relatively little wine besides Port makes it to the US market. The isolationism, dictatorship and centralized control of wine production that defined a large majority of the 20th century goes far in explaining this phenomenon, though, and it wasn’t until the Carnation Revolution of 1974 that democracy and economic revitalization began. Portugal’s entry into the European Union in 1986, with the accompanying access to capital, really accelerated the modern era in Portuguese wine, yet even today, the legacy of their isolation is manifested in our relative lack of familiarity with the multitudes of indigenous grapes and regional styles despite their tremendous quality. If the reasonable prices on offer by those few Portuguese brands that do manage to make it to American wine shelves aren’t enticement enough, contemplate how much confidence an importer/distributer must have in the wine to even make the attempt. While everyone has heard of Port, many fewer would know that the Douro DOC label is used for dry, unfortified wines made from the same region and vineyards as Port, and fewer still that white wines are made there. Surprising to even wine aficionados, is how fresh the Douro whites, with their indigenous grapes that are well suited to the legendarily hot climate, manage to be. Quinta do Crasto (CRAHSH-doe), established in 1615, is now run by the fourth generation of the Roquette family. This blend of 40% Viosinho, 30% Rabigato and 30% Gouveio is grown at the substantially cooler elevation of 600 meters, with north and east orientations. The wine is fermented low and slow then aged in a combination of stainless steel and neutral French oak. Orange blossom, fresh pear and citrus with a touch of minerals with a crisp and full bodied mouthfeel. It is positively lovely with roast fowl, seafood in cream sauce and alpine cheeses.