Cagnulari has an ancient history on Sardinia, and while the country of origin remains elusive, DNA research has shown that the variety is genetically identical to Spain’s Graciano, as well as many more that go by other names in diverse Mediterranean countries. The dark, aromatic grape is best known for lending structure and spice to Rioja blends, though in Sardinia it has developed its own identity over centuries of cultivation. Despite its high quality, Cagnulari nearly disappeared in the mid-to-late twentieth century as growers replaced traditional varieties with more productive or internationally recognizable grapes. One of the producers who resisted that trend was Giovanni Cherchi, who began farming his family’s vineyards in 1970 and founded the estate in 1980, eventually becoming one of the first in the area to bottle Cagnulari on its own rather than using it strictly as a blending component. The vineyards lie in the limestone hills of Logudoro, where alternating ridges and valleys of vines and olive groves benefit from sea breezes from the nearby coast and notable day–night temperature swings that help preserve freshness in the warm Mediterranean climate. The wine carries the Isola dei Nuraghi IGT designation, the name of which references the prehistoric stone nuraghe towers that dot the island’s landscape, as the grape is still too esoteric to have its own DOC. “Billia” is the nickname of Giovanni Maria Cherchi, father of the trio of siblings now running the estate, and his namesake wine comes from younger vines and represents a more approachable expression of the grape. Following destemming and crushing, the wine ferments with eight to ten days of skin maceration before completing malolactic fermentation and aging for roughly six months in a combination of steel and large casks. Deep ruby in color, it shows the variety’s typical profile of red berries, spiced plum, and black pepper supported by firm but moderate tannins, pairing naturally with roasted meats, lamb dishes such as agnello al sugo, or aged pecorino.