Grüner Veltliner is the main, indigenous white grape of Austria, and Kamptal is one of its most famous regions. Johannes Hirsch is a sixth generation winemaker whose father began farming organically in the 70s and in the 2000s he was one of the founders of a new biodynamic farming certification organisation called Respekt. The Hirsch estate is, of course, certified biodynamic, but some grapes used in this wine are from newly acquired vineyards that are transitioning to organic, so this wine is not certified. Hirsch means “deer” in German, and “fahrvernugen” is a made up word that smushes together “driving” and “pleasure,” hence the fun depiction of a person mounted on an enormous deer. As you would expect with so much attention paid to the farming, the harvest and cellar work is totally natural and minimal in its intervention: native yeast, neutral barrels, no malolactic fermentation and some aging on the lees. What that adds up to is a rare thing, a $20 Grüner that gives all the proper varietal character: Grapefruit-ish citrus, white flowers and that hard to describe “Grüner spice”--somewhere between white pepper and a tennis ball. If you’ve ever been stumped by what to serve with fish tacos, it’s beer--just kidding--its Grüner.