We had the first wine produced by this storied winery, the Rosado, a little over a year ago, but when the wines are this compelling, why not go back to the well? Located in the Barrio de la Estación in Haro, where the 19th-century railway once ferried Rioja wines north to Bordeaux during the phylloxera crisis, the Muga family has long been a fixture of Rioja Alta. Founded in 1932 and still family run, Bodegas Muga remains one of the region’s benchmarks, noted for its rare in-house cooperage and traditional large oak vats. El Andén de la Estación, launched as a new project in 2020, pays homage to that historic platform (andén means platform in Spanish) and yet is a more approachable and early-drinking style than a traditional Crianza. The 2021 is 70% Tempranillo and 30% Garnacha, harvested from estate holdings (65%) and long-term contracted vineyards across Rioja Alta that are sustainably farmed on high-density trellises without systemic chemicals. The fruit was destemmed but not crushed and optically sorted to enhance the fruit character and extract less tannins, undergoing maceration in 16,000L vats coopered by Muga’s own workshop. Fermentation occurred with native yeasts, while malolactic was naturally delayed until late spring by the cellar’s cool, ventilated conditions. Aging lasted 14 months in neutral barriques of French and Central European oak, again crafted in-house. The result is a finely balanced Crianza: aromas of red cherry, raspberry, and pomegranate are framed by subtle spice and cedar that come from the Tempranillo and Garnacha grapes themselves, not from Oak. The palate is supple and fresh yet underpinned by Rioja’s classic structure. While designed for early enjoyment, it will reward a few years in bottle. True to tradition, roast lamb is the perfect match, though it will shine equally with grilled pork, mushroom stews, or a paella with sausage and peppers.