We had a wine from this producer a couple of years ago, so kudos to Cave des Onze Communes (OWNZ co-MOON, French for eleven villages), an admired cooperative of growers from eleven villages in the far northwestern, partially French-speaking region of Italy, for wowing us again. The 160, or so, members are incentivized to farm in carefully sustainable ways and must help in the cellar as well, which allows them to see the effect their farming has in the resulting wines. The Müller-Thurgau grape was created by Dr. Hermann Müller, a professor of botany from the Swiss canton of Thurgau in 1882, and the variety’s great adaptability and ample yields were the main reasons the grape was widely planted in Europe and beyond in the aftermath of World War II. It has been found, however, to make great wines only in steep vineyards at high elevations, as is the case in the Valle d’Aosta, home of Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn. Müller-Thurgau is ubiquitous in the Valle d’Aosta, where it is drunk as aperitivo and its mineral, alpine blossom, peach and gooseberry flavors pair with alpine cheeses and salads.